Mike and Matt hiking towards James peak

July 10,2002

Michael, Matthew, and I climbed Superstar Couloir on James Peak on July 10,2002. View of approach and route up Superstar couloir Michael is a friend I know from bike riding who's climbed for years all over the world. Matt's my son who got me into climbing and I'm Paul. We started from the St. Mary's glacier trailhead around 9:00 on the 9th. Matt, Michael and I hiked in to the base of the St. Mary's glacier, donned our crampons and headed up the glacier. It was a very easy walk up the snow field and we reached the top of it in about 30 minutes. (I think. I'm writing this 3.5 months after the trip.) At the top of St. Mary's we doffed our crampons and headed out west, northwest across a lovely alpine meadow, flat, easy walking, hard to beat. The wildflowers were glorious. About a third of the way across the meadow, we veered north to climb the low ridge running parallel to our original direction of travel. In retrospect this was a mistake, but more about that later. We climbed the ridge, then decended slightly to the end of what I'll describe as a jeep trail. We actually crossed this trail as we headed up the ridge. From this point we had an excellent view of the whole James Peak face where we planned to climb, and the adjacent ridges. We obviously had some choice in how we would decend from the climb, and talked about this for a while. Either the southeast or northeast ridge Heading across meadow between St. Mary's glacier and James Peakwould provide an easy walk off. We also noticed a wrecked truck down at the bottom of the slope. From where we were, the trail decends gradually into the cirque with a picturesque alpine lake (James Peak lake) lying at the foot of the mountain. What an ideal spot for a camp site! The lazy side of me mentioned that we could have driven in to this spot, but Michael quickly remarked that what's the fun of turning a 3 hour approach into less than an hour? Unfortunately, we passed another wreck on the slope into the basin as we walked down. I guess some folks don't have much to do on a Friday night. Anyway, down we went on an easy trail. We passed a decrepit shack that no doubt was once someone's home. We briefly considered this for a campsite, but knew we could do better. At the lake we scouted around for a level spot and the most likely candidate was on the other side, a further walk from where we were, but closer to the start of the climb. We found the perfect spot on a hummock of grass up Looking down at James peak lake the approach to Superstarabout 100 feet from the lake. We quickly set up our tent, ate lunch, then ducked inside to avoid the afternoon thunderstorm that was now upon us. Michael appreciated us sharing the tent (as planned) during the down pour. His bivy sack would have provided a poor alternative. Once the rain stopped everything was dry in minutes. Thank you, low humidity. Back east, everything would have remained wet for hours. Michael headed up to scout tomorrow's route. I headed up towards the northeast ridge and Matt decided to hike around the lake. I originally wasn't planning to climb the ridge, just get a little higher for a different perspective. I kept getting a little higher and a little higher until I was certainly much more than half way up. I sat on a rock and debated, finish the hike to the top or head back down? My lazy side won out and down I went. Back at camp, much to my chagrin, I could see the rock on which I sat while I debated continuing up or coming back down. The climb was terraced and I wasn't ¼ of the way up! My first taste of foreshortening! No wonder it seemed so easy. Matt and I were both back atcamping at the beginning of our route camp, Matt decided a wade in the lake would be in order, so off came the clothes and out he went. The area he entered was only about 18 inches deep and not too cold, so he plopped himself down. I was envious. Of course this is a lake entirely of snow melt from the field right above it. After a wade and sit, why not a jump in off a conveniently placed boulder along the shore? The water off the boulder was clear and deep enough, so off Matt went. Wow! Heart attack city! Needless to say, the shallow water was warmed by the sun, but the deeper water didn't benefit to the same degree. Matt was swimming, running out of there as fast as he could go. Ouch! Talk about invigorating. Well, a little later I decided to take a plunge, irrespective of Matt's encounter. It had been about 6 days since I had seen a shower or anything remotely similar. No jumping in for me, I walked in to about waist deep, then dunked myself under. It was cold. Duh. I was forcefully inhaling and exhaling as I rubbed myself all over, then beat a hasty exit. It was well worth it. Michael finally arrived back at camp and clued us in on the route, or as much as he could see. We planned our climb and decided to return via the southeast ridge then cut down one of the grass, talus slopes that would drop us back onto our initial snow slope up the climb. All in all, it looked pretty good, though Superstar Couloir would be a mixed rock and show climb. Early to bed for an "alpine start."

  sunrise above James lake

We were up the next morning at 4:00 and out of camp around 5:00. We first crossed about 200 yards of talus, then we started up a gradual snow slope. The night time temps didn't drop low enough to freeze the snow. It was soft, but not steep snow in Superstar couloir so soft to go without crampons so we geared up. When we got to the couloir, the pitch changed considerably. The snow was soft enough for kicking steps, which Michael did, followed by Matt, then me. By my turn, it was a veritable staircase, comfortable and secure, except for the rare step that occasionally broke out. Remember to kick in with the toe down so the step slopes inward, I think. About half way up, we ran out of snow and started climbing on rock, keeping an adequate distance between each of us in case someone clumsily pulls or kicks rock down on those below. The rock climbing was very comfortable Matt climbing rock section in couloirwith good hand and foot holds, and little exposure. Or maybe I just didn't notice the exposure because I'm more comfortable on rock. I certainly noticed it on the snow. Some of the hardest moves for me were stepping back onto the snow slope from the rocks. The snow was severely undercut and I suffer from short leg syndrome. Anyway, from the rock we went back onto steep snow, then once more on to rock near the top when the snow ran out for good. A last section of rock climbing, and the couloir spits you out onto the hiking trail. It's right there! Up one last ledge and your nose is practically on it. Turn left and a few hundred yards has you at the top. We were probably 3.5 hours from the time we left our camp until we reached the summit. At last, sit down, eat a snack and enjoy the top. The views were great and there is a stone wall that someone erected for protection, I guess. We hung out about half an hour then started down the southeast ridge. The existing trail is well marked and essentially, it's a stroll in the park. We ventured over to the cliff face a few times just to snoop around and view the route we climbed. Finally, we cut north for good and dropped down a grass, then talus slope back towards our camp. Hiking down the grass was nice, but the talus was a pain. We finally reached our initial snow slope, which was soft enough now for plunge stepping and the trip back to camp was quickly concluded. At camp I lounged around while Michael and Matt considered our options for climbing out of the cirque. We could retrace our path from the day before, or cut south, up a reasonably steep grass slope that looked quite inviting. Dead reckoning estimated we would save about 1.5 miles off our trip, so this was our plan. We ate lunch, packed up and headed out, returning by yesterday's route until we passed the long abandoned cabin. After that we headed south up the steep grass slope we had been eyeballing for the past day. The hike up the slope was slow but steady with each of us finding our own personal switchbacks. It was probably a 30 minute hike up. At the top it was clear sailing, with all of us legging it towards the drainage that dumps into St. Mary's glacier. We practically ran across the meadow and hit the glacier flying. Matt was in the lead and pulled away from both Michael and me as he skated down the glacier. The snout, or bottom of St. Mary's glacier is a little steeper than the rest Looking up St. Mary's glacier from the baseabove, so I was a little more cautious at this point. Matt was already long gone and Michael headed over to the rocks. I made it without any embarrassing mishaps - no unplanned butt slides in front of the snow boarders who were up there. As we headed down the trail back to the car, the storm clouds gathered. I was amazed at the number of people heading up to cavort on the glacier in the threatening weather. Our day was done. We were heading on down to the Sawatch Range for a shot at the north side of LaPlata Peak.

 


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