Michael is a friend I know from bike riding who's climbed for years all over the
world. Matt's my son who got me into climbing and I'm Paul. We started from the
St. Mary's glacier trailhead around 9:00 on the 9th. Matt, Michael and I hiked
in to the base of the St. Mary's glacier, donned our crampons and headed up the
glacier. It was a very easy walk up the snow field and we reached the top of it
in about 30 minutes. (I think. I'm writing this 3.5 months after the trip.) At
the top of St. Mary's we doffed our crampons and headed out west, northwest across
a lovely alpine meadow, flat, easy walking, hard to beat. The wildflowers were
glorious. About a third of the way across the meadow, we veered north to climb
the low ridge running parallel to our original direction of travel. In retrospect
this was a mistake, but more about that later. We climbed the ridge, then decended
slightly to the end of what I'll describe as a jeep trail. We actually crossed
this trail as we headed up the ridge. From this point we had an excellent view
of the whole James Peak face where we planned to climb, and the adjacent ridges.
We obviously had some choice in how we would decend from the climb, and talked
about this for a while. Either the southeast or northeast ridge
would
provide an easy walk off. We also noticed a wrecked truck down at the bottom of
the slope. From where we were, the trail decends gradually into the cirque with
a picturesque alpine lake (James Peak lake) lying at the foot of the mountain.
What an ideal spot for a camp site! The lazy side of me mentioned that we could
have driven in to this spot, but Michael quickly remarked that what's the fun
of turning a 3 hour approach into less than an hour? Unfortunately, we passed
another wreck on the slope into the basin as we walked down. I guess some folks
don't have much to do on a Friday night. Anyway, down we went on an easy trail.
We passed a decrepit shack that no doubt was once someone's home. We briefly considered
this for a campsite, but knew we could do better. At the lake we scouted around
for a level spot and the most likely candidate was on the other side, a further
walk from where we were, but closer to the start of the climb. We found the perfect
spot on a hummock of grass up
about
100 feet from the lake. We quickly set up our tent, ate lunch, then ducked inside
to avoid the afternoon thunderstorm that was now upon us. Michael appreciated
us sharing the tent (as planned) during the down pour. His bivy sack would have
provided a poor alternative. Once the rain stopped everything was dry in minutes.
Thank you, low humidity. Back east, everything would have remained wet for hours.
Michael headed up to scout tomorrow's route. I headed up towards the northeast
ridge and Matt decided to hike around the lake. I originally wasn't planning to
climb the ridge, just get a little higher for a different perspective. I kept
getting a little higher and a little higher until I was certainly much more than
half way up. I sat on a rock and debated, finish the hike to the top or head back
down? My lazy side won out and down I went. Back at camp, much to my chagrin,
I could see the rock on which I sat while I debated continuing up or coming back
down. The climb was terraced and I wasn't ¼ of the way up! My first taste of foreshortening!
No wonder it seemed so easy. Matt and I were both back at
camp, Matt decided a wade in the lake would be in order, so off came the clothes
and out he went. The area he entered was only about 18 inches deep and not too
cold, so he plopped himself down. I was envious. Of course this is a lake entirely
of snow melt from the field right above it. After a wade and sit, why not a jump
in off a conveniently placed boulder along the shore? The water off the boulder
was clear and deep enough, so off Matt went. Wow! Heart attack city! Needless
to say, the shallow water was warmed by the sun, but the deeper water didn't benefit
to the same degree. Matt was swimming, running out of there as fast as he could
go. Ouch! Talk about invigorating. Well, a little later I decided to take a plunge,
irrespective of Matt's encounter. It had been about 6 days since I had seen a
shower or anything remotely similar. No jumping in for me, I walked in to about
waist deep, then dunked myself under. It was cold. Duh. I was forcefully inhaling
and exhaling as I rubbed myself all over, then beat a hasty exit. It was well
worth it. Michael finally arrived back at camp and clued us in on the route, or
as much as he could see. We planned our climb and decided to return via the southeast
ridge then cut down one of the grass, talus slopes that would drop us back onto
our initial snow slope up the climb. All in all, it looked pretty good, though
Superstar Couloir would be a mixed rock and show climb. Early to bed for an "alpine
start."
We were up the next morning at 4:00 and out of camp around 5:00. We first crossed
about 200 yards of talus, then we started up a gradual snow slope. The night
time temps didn't drop low enough to freeze the snow. It was soft, but not
so soft to go without crampons so we geared up. When we got to the couloir,
the pitch changed considerably. The snow was soft enough for kicking steps,
which Michael did, followed by Matt, then me. By my turn, it was a veritable
staircase, comfortable and secure, except for the rare step that occasionally
broke out. Remember to kick in with the toe down so the step slopes inward,
I think. About half way up, we ran out of snow and started climbing on rock,
keeping an adequate distance between each of us in case someone clumsily pulls
or kicks rock down on those below. The rock climbing was very comfortable
with
good hand and foot holds, and little exposure. Or maybe I just didn't notice
the exposure because I'm more comfortable on rock. I certainly noticed it on
the snow. Some of the hardest moves for me were stepping back onto the snow
slope from the rocks. The snow was severely undercut and I suffer from short
leg syndrome. Anyway, from the rock we went back onto steep snow, then once
more on to rock near the top when the snow ran out for good. A last section
of rock climbing, and the couloir spits you out onto the hiking trail. It's
right there! Up one last ledge and your nose is practically on it. Turn left
and a few hundred yards has you at the top. We were probably 3.5 hours from
the time we left our camp until we reached the summit. At last, sit down, eat
a snack and enjoy the top. The views were great and there is a stone wall that
someone erected for protection, I guess. We hung out about half an hour then
started down the southeast ridge. The existing trail is well
marked and essentially, it's a stroll in the park. We ventured over to the cliff
face a few times just to snoop around and view the route we climbed. Finally,
we cut north for good and dropped down a grass, then talus slope back towards
our camp. Hiking down the grass was nice, but the talus was a pain. We finally
reached our initial snow slope, which was soft enough now for plunge stepping
and the trip back to camp was quickly concluded. At camp I lounged around while
Michael and Matt considered our options for climbing out of the cirque. We could
retrace our path from the day before, or cut south, up a reasonably steep grass
slope that looked quite inviting. Dead reckoning estimated we would save about
1.5 miles off our trip, so this was our plan. We ate lunch, packed up and headed
out, returning by yesterday's route until we passed the long abandoned cabin.
After that we headed south up the steep grass slope we had been eyeballing for
the past day. The hike up the slope was slow but steady with each of us finding
our own personal switchbacks. It was probably a 30 minute hike up. At the top
it was clear sailing, with all of us legging it towards the drainage that dumps
into St. Mary's glacier. We practically ran across the meadow and hit the glacier
flying. Matt was in the lead and pulled away from both Michael and me as he
skated down the glacier. The snout, or bottom of St. Mary's glacier is a little
steeper than the rest
above,
so I was a little more cautious at this point. Matt was already long gone and
Michael headed over to the rocks. I made it without any embarrassing mishaps
- no unplanned butt slides in front of the snow boarders who were up there.
As we headed down the trail back to the car, the storm clouds gathered. I was
amazed at the number of people heading up to cavort on the glacier in the threatening
weather. Our day was done. We were heading on down to the Sawatch Range for
a shot at the north side of LaPlata Peak.
![]() |
![]() |
![]() |
![]() |
![]() |
![]() |
![]() |
![]() |
![]() |
![]() |
![]() |