Costume History Class

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The History of Fashion and Dress /
Theatre 355 Main Page

Email me: jlc5f@virginia.edu

Assignment: Study Garment / 1930s & Pre- & Early-War 1940s

Apparently, the first reference in print using this term was in the Glasgow Bulletin, 14 Oct. 1933, which described "A swagger-coat with collarette and gauntlets of black astrakhan." (p. 15/1) In 1968, the magazine Fashion Alphabet describes a swagger coat as "a jacket with a very full back, hanging loose in front."

However, thanks to the Internet, I was able to find an earlier reference to a "swagger coat" in a newspaper article from 1932, in a wedding announcement, "The bride's traveling costume was blue and white tripple crepe with hat and accessories of red. She carried a white swagger coat." ("Farnsworth-Smith Wedding Performed in St. John's Church." Reprinted from the Camden Advance-Journal, Camden, NY, Thursday, August 18, 1932. http://www.dfarns.com/farnsworth/timeline/f19320816.html - ref. April 27, 2001)

The style seems to have been popular throughout the late 1930s to about 1941, and found new popularity starting about 1946. All of the features of the study garment can be seen in similar garments of the 1930s through the 1950s, i.e., the full back shape, the upstanding collar, the vertical welted pocket, the sleeve cuff, and the diamond shaped gusset under the arm.

1933

"Suit no. 6398 - a two-piece suit. The coat may be either full- or three-quarters length. It features a drop-shoulder yoke in one with fronts and a flaring back." -- Vogue Pattern Book (v.9, no.1), Oct.-Nov. 1933, p. 30.

1933

"Coat no. 6352 - Seven-eighths length swagger coat." -- Vogue Pattern Book (v.9, no.1), Oct.-Nov. 1933, p. 56.

1934

Couturier designs - "Ensemble no. 309 [left] smartly combines a swagger coat, a skirt, and a bolero with a novel sleeve that reveals the lingerie blouse beneath." - "Suit no. 307 [right] tops its slim-fitting, two-piece skirt with a charmingly casual swagger coat, belted in front and vented in back." -- Vogue Pattern Book (v.9, no.6), Aug.-Sept. 1934, p. 13.

1936

"7184 - A swagger coat that manages to look both classic and distinctive. It is "Easy-to-Make," with a full back, applied yoke that forms the collar, and raglan sleeves." -- Vogue Pattern Book, (v.11, no.3) February-March, 1936, p. 36.

1937

"7597 - Loose swagger-back jacket and one-piece frock. the jacket may be lined. It has an upstanding collar and seven-eighths length bell sleeves." - Vogue Pattern Book, (v.12, no.4) April-May, 1937, p. 26.

1938

"7067 - Flared sports coat in fingertip length." - Vogue Pattern Book, (v.13, no.3) February-March, 1938, p. 46.

1939

"8513 - Wear this "Easy-to Make" plaid woolen full-backed coat when you're a spectator." -- "Habitat, North Pole," Vogue Pattern Book, (v.15, no.2) December 1939-January 1940, p. 53.

1941

"Simplicity 3181-Ladies' swagger coat and skirt, circa 1941. The Coat The ladies' coat is cut in two lengths, has built-up collarless neckline and epaulet shoulders. The coat is darted in the front shoulders, and closes with one or three buttons. Two patch pockets in the front are optional. The coat is cut from 100% wool gabardine, tweed or flannel, fully lined with silk crepe. Shorter length coat in above fabrics and wool tweed plaid. The Skirt: The skirt is in four panels with a full waistband. Closes at left side with concealed zipper or snaps and hooks. The skirt is cut with the fabrics listed above for the swagger coat." (This image and description courtesy of Alexandra Gamertsfelder (evadress@yahoo.com), from her vintage clothing & pattern site Eva Dress Studio.)

For information on the post-WWII period, go to the next page.

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