Kings House Hotel to Kinlochleven
- Thursday, May 31
We requested "continental"
breakfasts, thinking that we didn't need the tremendous
breakfasts we'd been having. But this was larger than ever! There
were various sorts of bread, including croissants, and cheese
slices, cold cuts, eggs, yogurt, a variety of cereals and fruits,
as well as juice,tea and coffee. When we finally rolled out, it
was raining a little, so we put on all our rain clothes.
The regular route to Altnafeadh was
closed, but there's a good, maybe better, alternate route. It
follows the river at the base of Buachaille Etive Mor, so the
views were fantastic. We frequently stopped to watch climbers on
the mountain as they made seemingly slow progress. The only
problem was that area was extremely wet and marshy. At one point,
Alida jumped across a little stream and landed in squishy mud.
She sank in up above her knee! (Unfortunately, I didn't have my
camera ready... the picture below is just an easy, rocky stream
crossing!)
| At Altnafeadh we crossed the road and
started up the Devil's Staircase. This is just a path up
the hillside, with zigzags near the top, for a climb of
850 feet. At the top there are amazing views back toward
Glencoe as well as forward toward the Mamores and Ben
Nevis. There's a
ridge walk that crosses the West Highland Way at this
point. Since this was a short mileage day, Thann and Andy
and I decided to add a side excursion on this ridge path.
Penny's knee had been hurting for days, and she certainly
didn't want any extra walking, so she and Alida went on
ahead to Kinlochleven. Our ridge walk (the five photos to
the right and below) turned out to be excellent. We went
to the top of one hill, and then another, and then
another... I'm not sure how often we said "That next
top isn't far; let's go!" We finally arrived at one
that had severe drops on all sides except the way we had
come, so it was a definite turn-around point. Besides,
our lucky break in the rain seemed about to end, as the
clouds were moving in and down. We ate lunch after
returning to the Devil's Staircase, not wanting to be
caught on the ridge in a total cloud cover.
The path down to
Kinlochleven gave good views ahead to the Mamore range.
We could see Mamore Lodge, where we were to spend the
night, all the way from the top of the crossing; it was a
white speck on the hillside beyond Kinlochleven.
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We were fascinated by the
huge water pipes that took water from Blackwater
Reservoir down to the aluminium plant at Kinlochleven. We
had seen the reservoir from the top of the ridge; it was
miles away, but the pipes came across to a building
beside the path before turning a corner and going steeply
downhill. At the bottom we were right beside the pipes. |
The final half-mile (or was it a
mile?) up to Mamore Lodge seemed long. I was afraid that Alida
and Penny were worried about us, because we had thought our side
excursion would take half an hour, and it was close to three
hours. They had gotten to the Lodge at 3:00, and we dragged in,
in the rain, at 6. They had indeed begun to be a little
concerned. But they knew our weakness for "just one more
peak", so weren't really surprised. We all enjoyed the Lodge
-- the people were friendly and the food was good.