Bridge of Orchy to Kings House Hotel - Wednesday, May 30

We started off by crossing the bridge itself. This was built in 1750, and is one of the best of the bridges on the military roads. We then climbed a hill to a good viewpoint, with views forward to Lake Tulla and Rannoch Moor and back to Bridge of Orchy.

After going down to Loch Tulla we were on a little road that went past the Inveroran Hotel, to Forest Lodge. Here there was a gate blocking vehicles at the entrance to the road (an old drove road) across Rannoch Moor. We were astounded at the sign saying "Fire Risk Acute", when the ground was so soggy. Did it really mean what it said?

The road across Rannoch Moor didn't seem as forbidding and desolate as I had pictured it, although the prospect of making one's way without a road, as Alan Breck Stewart and David Balfour did, was hard to imagine. The moor was mostly either bogs or waterways, small or large. The mountains, with their snow patches, became more and more impressive. The walking was easy, and soon after lunch we were at the other side, with the picture-book view of Buachaille Etive Mor behind Black Rock Cottage.

We were not far from the base of the ski lift, where there's a museum, so Andy went running up to see whether it was open. Unfortunately, we were in the gap between the winter season and the summer season, and it was closed till the next week. We crossed the highway and walked on to the Kingshouse Hotel, where we were spending the night. We enjoyed the atmosphere of the centuries old building.

It had had a bad reputation some centuries ago, when it catered to drovers and smugglers. Now it's just an old, rambling building, with floors that aren't level, and a warren of halls and rooms. We had a comfortable, relaxing afternoon in the lounge, where we were the only occupants. We enjoyed both the coal fire in the fireplace and the incredible views through the big picture windows.