The Inn Way to the Yorkshire Dales

Day 5 :  West Burton to Kettlewell

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Soon after leaving West Burton the next morning we were on a minor road with beautiful views of the Valley of Walden.  The idyllic scene hasn't changed for centuries, with its scattered field barns.






After turning left up a farm track, we encountered a situation which was new to us.  There was a calf outside the field that he probably should have been in. 



We walked on up the track, and the calf walked with us, noisily telling us that he wanted to go back in with his friends and playmates.  Not too much farther along we came to a gate.  We managed to untie the rope that fastened it and let the calf back in.  We hope that was the right thing to do!



The sketch map in our book marked an "old railway carriage", so we weren't surprised to see it.  But that didn't diminish our curiosity as to how it got there, or why.


After we climbed a bit more, we were once again crossing moorland.  There was often lots of cotton-grass.


Sometimes we were in boggy areas, with their usual reedy grass.



We were happy to arrive at the Thwaite Arms at lunchtime.  This is in the tiny, remote village of Horsehouse.  As the name suggests, the village and pub were an overnight stop on a packhorse and stagecoach route in past centuries.



The present landlady is a good gardener and has made a pleasant beer garden out back.



In the afternoon we traversed Coverdale. There were first fields (here shared with Highland cattle)


and then a long hot uphill walk along a road.  We were glad to get to Hunters Stone, which we knew was near the top.  This is a guidestone, put there to help hunters, and monks from Coverham Abbey, find their way over the moor.


Soon after, we were back on pleasant paths across the moor, and then on a walled "green lane" which took us from the moor all the way down into Kettlewell.  Green lanes are ancient unpaved public roads, many of which are now unfortunately popular with off-road recreational drivers.





Finally, our home for the night in Kettlewell, the Blue Bell Inn.



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