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Near Lancaster California...a playa...a great dry lake bed in the high
desert called MUROC. I think I am beginning to understand what the
American photographer Richard Misrach finds here....his motive may
be different than mine but we can agree that the place is like no
other...
I am here to photograph the MUROC meet, an event that pays
homage to dry lake racing of the past. The Southern California
Timing Association that sponsors this event also holds meets at El Mirage
Dry lake and the Bonneville Salt Flats in Utah ... Bonneville ... the
place where Breedlove drives his 700 mph rocket car. The
Association was formed by clubs that raced at MUROC before the
second world war. The purpose of the event is the same as it was
50 years ago .... SPEED ... EXTREME SPEED!!
This place...this high desert is an extraordinary place....it is harsh, it
is stark and it is dramatic. As I approach MUROC from the southwest
I stop occasionally to photograph what is there ... an abandoned
trailer that once served as a real estate office, tattered signs offering
land for sale where there seems to be nothing but dry cracked sandy
hard bed covered with scrub brush and joshuas, an intersection
marked with directions to some unknown point out in the desert
called EDEN ... nowhere ... a hand made sign proclaiming JESUS as
though HE might personally make an appearance and save us from
the place....up over the Cahon Pass....towns like Pinon Hills, Liano,
Pear Blossom, Little Rock and on into Palmdale. From Palmdale I can
see north...signs of the Air Force Base come into view, a few fighter
planes dart at the horizon. After a few minutes I am lost in the back
streets having become more interested in the town of Palmdale than I
am in getting to my final destination. I am suddenly aware that what
I am seeing just above the horizon is something brand
new....awesome....unnerving. A huge black creature fills the sky to
the northwest, it's prominent black wings in a perfect vertical ... my
first stealth bomber...hope it's my last unless I can make a good
picture.
Sitting in my hotel room the first night, the evening news tells of a
story involving a truck shipment of weapons lost in the desert on it's
way to Camp Pendleton. The suspicion is that it has been high jacked
possibly by terrorists of the Oklahoma Bombing variety. This god
forsaken place, this L.A county, methamphetamine lab infested
country side ... a scenario like the one on the evening news could
only happen here or somewhere like here.
The MUROC people come here not for the view, not out of deep
curiosity or misbelief, not to make photographs. They come to race
the clock...to push their machines to a high limit....to run out onto
the playa for a mile and a half as fast as man and machine can go
together. They are probably from all walks of life but they appear to
me to be adventurers linked to a uniquely American fascination with
the motor car. They come to this desert place equipped to race; with
their machines, there shelter and a certain pride in what they are
about to do. I talked with a guy who drag raced his car on the
streets of Long Beach in the 50's....he is here to go again on
MUROC'S cracked, swollen floor. Two old Studebaker owners
invite me to sit with them and their car as they reminisce about
other races at El Mirage, Rosemond, Harper and Bonneville. Then
there was a small framed, gentle man with an easy sense of humor.
He waited alone with his 49 Ford convertible coup, dusty from the
detritus of the playa but distinct and perfectly restored. He romanced
his wife in the car forty-eight years ago. He may have been at
MUROC at the founding when people like Eldon Snapp, Tony
Campanna, Merl Finkenbinder and Wally Parks sought to test
themselves and their machines.
They are all sturdy, energetic, immensely focused people. For them
this is not a hobby, it is an obsession. Because to be here requires a
kind of everlasting, insatiable commitment. Here, motor car racing
becomes Art.
The men and woman of MUROC take on the desert easily, they
conform to it's extremes...for it is only here that they can open up
the great power of the machines they have meticulously and
tirelessly sculpted to perfection. Machines that will allow them to
transcend their plodding, awkward human gate and for several
moments soar like finely honed mechanical thoroughbreds
....adrenalized...vaporous.
I was led to this place in part by a writer from WIRED Magazine. He
told me that these folks were "great...very accepting." He was
right....in the middle of a grossly inhospitable environment, their
generous spirit is welcome.
All the Best -- BILL M.
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